I’ve had these boots for over a year now and have been really impressed. So here’s my first review:
The Trango Alp is a great all round boot which is primarily for alpine summer use but will perform well in most areas. It could be considered the tougher, older brother to the Scrambling legend Trango Evo S. It can also be used for easier winter mountaineering and scrambling plus general hill working in the UK.
The Trango performs well in most areas, but doesn’t excel in any. I think that it needs to be thought as a good all-rounder boot. When used on scrambling I thought that it was stiff enough to provide support but the slightly more aggressive tread than the more specialist boots, this said i do quite like the ‘Climbing zones’ on boots such as the Evo S, the TNF Verto S4K or the Scarpa Charmoz, where as some may prefer a more lugged design which the Alp has. The front area of the sole has a section smooth enough for edging front on but unlike the ‘climbing-zones’ the edging performance on the sides aren’t as good (see photos) The trade off for this is that I find the Alp has greater traction on grassy or snowy surfaces due to a more aggressively lugged sole unit; this makes it much better for general use.
In winter use I’ve found this boot to perform really well with crampons and fits the Grivel air-tech newmatic really well, as well as Petzl Irvis for easy glacier work; also a mate of mine had some old DMM crampons with the heel clip. So they fit well with many crampons. I’ve pushed them to grade III so far and could probably push to grade IV(I have small feet and don’t weigh much) but most people could reasonably comfortable push grade III provided good technique is used. They aren’t the stiffest B2 boots(I personally don’t like the rating system- its a bit vague for me) but they are pretty comfortable for walk in’s and when climbing.
I also reckon they would be good for Via ferrate, though I haven’t used them for it(If you prefer to use a boot – personally it’s all about approach shoes for me – more specifically the Sportiva Boulder X) given how good it is for scrambling it could work quite well.
The Idro-Perwanger leather upper has so far proved very durable and the GTX lining has kept my feet dry and in cold weather it’s kept them fairly warm, given that they are an un-insulated boot. I reckon you could push a summer ascent of Mt Blanc but I’ve not tried it yet. The sole unit has also proved particularly durable. It uses a Vibram sole with Sportiva’s Impact Brake System (Trek). This is also means it’s very comfortable to walk on without compromising on durability or traction of the sole. The large rand will also help to improve the durability of the boot.
This have an interesting fit. Whilst narrow like you’d expect a Sportiva to be but unlike their Evo series it has a slightly rounded but ‘blunter’ toe box, where the Evo series has a very narrow and pointed toe box. So for those with narrow feet who find that with blunter ended toes the Evo series is to tight across the forefoot and toes then this is the fit for you. They also have reasonably a high volume fit for a boot so narrow, but this works with the less specialised and less tight fitting performance desired by this boot in comparison with the Evo S. The lacing system is really really good, the cleats are positioned very well to allow a more personal fit. The eyelets are also well positioned and seem to be very durable with no signs of wear so far.
Good all rounder
Nice lacing system
A great pair of all round boots, with excellent durability and a great lacing system. If you can only afford one pair of boots then this is probably a good shout. The competitive price helps the cash strapped as well. For those even more cash strapped the Boreal Triglavs are even less expensive with similar performance, but unique fit. However the closest this boot would probably be the new Manta Pro from Scarpa.
Review by Rich
Disclaimer – This is only my personal opinion. It is important to recognise that everyone is different, especially with feet. What works for some people may not work for others. I would always advise going to get any footwear fitted at a shop by a boot-fitter and not to buy off it the Internet.If you have any doubt as to the suitability of mountain footwear contact a mountain professional such as a member of the BMG, AMI or MTA as well as a professional boot-fitter.